改革開放前,外國人很少有機(jī)會到中國旅游、生活。他們對中國的印象大多來自書籍、電視媒體,因而對相差甚遠(yuǎn)的異國文化存在諸多不理解或者理解不深入。然而,隨著中國對外開放,旅游業(yè)蓬勃發(fā)展,越來越多的外國朋友到中國各地旅游、工作,越來越多外國人成為了“中國通”,他們十分熟悉中國的文化、旅游、歷史、地理、民俗等知識,甚至有很深的研究。來自挪威的前金融時報記者Sigve就是其中一位。
在一次偶然機(jī)會里,Sigve前往四川峨眉山體驗旅游了一番,在山下,他和朋友們邊喝啤酒邊泡溫泉;次日還參觀了著名的大佛禪院,并與禪院高僧用英語很愉快的進(jìn)行交流。夜間,他和一群來自不同國家的朋友在金頂喝酒聊天;晨起,他登上金頂華藏寺觀看云海與晨曦。整個行程愉快而輕松,讓他對峨眉山留下深刻的印象。
回家之后的Sigve對朋友說起峨眉山之旅贊不絕口,引得朋友的好奇心更重。為了能讓更多外國朋友了解他的所見所聞,他寫下《夢回圣山》,以示自己對峨眉山的不舍情結(jié)。
原文如下:
A Sacred Mountain To Return To
夢回圣山
Author: Sigve
作者:Sigve
Emei Shan, in English known as Mount Emei, calls visitors back time and again. The tallest of China’s Four Sacred Buddhist Mountains presents visitors with a plethora of nice temples thrown open to guests as well as stunningly beautiful views and cloud vistas. It also offers a range of traditional pleasant Sichuan experiences.
峨眉山,英文譯作Mount Emei,是一座讓無數(shù)游客流連往返的圣山。峨眉山作為中國四大佛教名山中海拔最高的一座山,擁有許多向游客開放的寺廟、美麗風(fēng)景和云海風(fēng)光。峨眉山帶給游客一系列的“四川印象”?! ?/p>
Located in the province of Sichuan in Southwestern China, the highest peak of Emei Shan rises 3099 metres above sea level, and is home to two temples as well as a truly massive statue of the Bodhisattva Samantabhadra (the “All-Gracious” wish-granter, whose Chinese name is Pu Xian) riding his six-tusked elephant. Visitors who are up early enough can see the sunrise over the Sea of Clouds from the summit, a spectacular sight even when the sun itself is hidden in the morning mists.
峨眉山,坐落于中國西南地區(qū)的四川省,最高峰海拔3099米,是普賢菩薩的道場,供奉著一座巨大的普賢菩薩佛像,他乘坐一頭有六顆象牙的大象。在這里,如果游客早起可去山頂觀看太陽藏匿于云海的日出風(fēng)光。
While the light brightens, the nearby lesser peaks slowly stand out as the mists burn away. When the spectator turns around a whole new vista will have come into view while the attention was focused elsewhere.
This is a spectacular sight at any time of the year, but if visitors brave the cold during the winter, with temperatures often dropping well into the negative degrees, the combination of sunrise and snow-covered peaks is especially breathtaking.
當(dāng)天漸漸亮?xí)r,周圍低矮的山峰便慢慢地在云里出現(xiàn)了。當(dāng)人們轉(zhuǎn)彎時,一幅嶄新的畫面出現(xiàn)在眼前。這是一年四季都可以看到的風(fēng)景,但如果游客在冬季時能不顧嚴(yán)寒在零下攝氏度的環(huán)境下早起,還可以看到美麗絕倫的日出和佛光?! ?/p>
Visitors have several options for reaching the peak itself. There are shuttle busses going nearly to the summit where the final stretch is covered either on foot or by a ride in a cable car, or it is possible to take one of several hiking routes from the foot of the mountain all the way to the peak, all of which will take hikers through several areas populated by highly territorial Tibetan Macaque monkeys which visitors are repeatedly warned not to stray too close to; they are indigenous to the area, but tend to see hikers as a source of snacks, even though feeding them is forbidden. In addition there is a chance of hearing the Emei Music Frog, with its distinct vocalisation compared by some to various musical instruments.
峨眉山登頂,游客有以下幾種選擇:第一種,可以選擇乘坐班車,目的地是靠近山頂?shù)牡胤?,在那里既可以步行也可以乘坐纜車登頂。第二種,全程步行上山,途徑幾個藏獼猴群居的地區(qū),路經(jīng)這些地方游客們會被不停地提醒:不要靠獼猴太近。這些野生獼猴會向游客所要零食,在這里游客們禁止喂食獼猴?! ?/p>
Hikers will pass through lush, green forests, walk along river gorges crossed by precarious looking rope bridges and may stop and enter a great many of the Dozens of temples along the path. Of particular note is the nunnery of Fuhu with its hall of 500 statues depicting enlightened masters and, it is said, visitors can reveal who would be their patron with a simple bit of self-fortune telling. Many of these also offer accommodation in addition to the numerous guest houses and hotels dotting Emei, but guests should be warned that if they choose to stay in the monastery they will be awoken at the same early hour as the monks themselves when they begin their chanting with gongs and wooden percussion instruments.
One of the temples near the foot of the mountain is also home to a local school of Wushu Kung Fu. The local traditional theatre, which is well worth a visit, makes great use of this in its performances to impressively depict acrobatic fight scenes.
徒步的驢友,通過郁郁蔥蔥的森林,沿著河谷、穿越危險的道路,順著小路進(jìn)入幾十座偉大的寺廟。 尤以坐擁500座先尊的伏虎寺最為特別。傳聞游客只需抽一次簽便可知道自己人生的另一半是誰。許多寺廟都提供有多種客房選擇的旅店服務(wù),但選擇在此住宿的旅客,得接受早上被寺里僧人們早起的敲鐘誦經(jīng)聲吵醒。
山腳下有座寺廟,同時也是當(dāng)?shù)氐囊凰湫g(shù)學(xué)校。其精彩的武術(shù)、雜技表演非常值得一看。
Emei Shan has, as do most regions, its own take on traditional Sichuan cuisine, with great focus on pickles, soups, poultry and fish dishes. In particular the fish and sour duck soups stand out as local specialties. In addition Emei Shan has a unique take on the Sichuan barbeque, said by many to be the very best in the entire province.
同大多數(shù)地區(qū)一樣,峨眉山憑借泡菜、煲湯、雞鴨魚類的烹飪在川菜中占有自己的一席之地。尤以魚和老鴨湯堪稱當(dāng)?shù)氐奶厣?。另外,峨眉山的燒烤在川味燒烤中也享有特殊地位,被視為全省最有名燒烤?! ?/p>
All these attractions, coupled with the famous laid-back Sichuan lifestyle that makes Emei Shan a great place to go for those who simply wish to kick back and relax, are only some of the reasons why many visitors return to Emei Shan several times. Not just native Sichuanese looking to escape the larger cities for a weekend, but both westerners living in China and international tourists name the mountain one of those rare destinations that will draw you back to discover new thing things again and again. So what are you waiting for?
以上所有的景致,伴以四川出了名的慢節(jié)奏生活使峨眉成為想要放松自己的人們流連忘返,休閑娛樂的好去處。它不僅是省內(nèi)人逃離都市生活的周末之選,也是讓中國西部甚至國際游客都魂牽夢繞的恩賜之地。你還在等什么?